Insightful new profile on Kanoa Igarashi challenges the idea that the golden boy from Japan is nothing but a female surfer from Stepford!

“Of course I’m thinking of death, how can you not get over some of these swells these days?”

Nathan Florence, who has just turned twenty-seven and with reddish brown eyes as dried blood, is the most interesting of the Florence pack, as evidenced by its recent foray into the controversial subscription service primarily used by prostitutes and porn models.

Recently, Nathan appeared on a Reddit AMA, an interactive interview where celebrities or whatever answer fans’ questions in real time.

His responses, as always, are striking.

How many days a week do you train outside of surfing when it’s not pumping? What do you mainly focus on during your workouts? Secondary question: what is your plan for your OnlyFans? I think a few here are really curious as to why we should pay to view your content?

I train in the gym five days a week, two days of active rest, swimming, diving, rowing, foiling, cycling activities for active rest. I program very demanding mentally demanding workouts mainly based on crossfit. Willpower is everything in IMO Big Waves. Train with intensity where you start to think “I can’t finish, I can’t” but the other side of your mind says “We have no choice but to continue”. It’s important for mentally pushing myself into the most important things, huge for overcoming bad incidents and developing willpower in an epic way! I’ll be doing more in-depth videos on this on my new Coaching channel. I complete this type of training with pure strength powerlifting, deadlifts, squats, Olympic lifting, heavy weights and less reps, this is for me the best preparation for surfing and prevention injuries.

How long do you think you can paddle continuously straight?

Five or six hours, maybe more

If you couldn’t be a pro surfer what career would you want?

I love trading and writing, but I think I would have tried cross-fit or endurance type sport! I love this stuff. I am naturally a good swimmer I would have loved to try for the pro, unfortunately I am not six or five years old. Ha!

What is the average duration of a session for you?

If the waves shoot, four to six hours I’ll stay outside

If the waves are just fun and medium, one to two hours

If the waves are bad I try to give it at least an hour!

Sometimes, it’s just not worth getting frustrated, haha! I called him several times after one or two waves.

The next time you charge big Mavs, would you consider surfing a big OB (Ocean Beach, San Francisco)? Would love to see my local on the vlog and maybe see you in the lineup! Plus, where are the Nathan Florence t-shirts ?! I have shirts from Koa and Eli!

I have wanted to try OB for so long now! I’m always so fried in Mavs so I never do! definitely a goal! I cannot make shirts due to contractual obligations for main sponsor Vans! But happy to say I’m doing a signature collection with them next year! There will be lightning haha!

Did you go to Kahuku High School?

I did! During two years! I’m going to be completely honest with everything here, I left high school in eighth grade and made a decent home school effort and then I just quit. I gave everything to my surf. I did not graduate. Do I regret it? Almost, I can always get my GED if I think it’s needed.

Your aerial game has made insane progress. What do you know now that you wish you had known a few years ago?

1. It’s going to take time, a lot of time, no matter what! So expect that!

2. Head position (where you look at take off), speed and wider support were HUGE learning curves for me !!

3. When learning, the wind is your friend! Only go against it or enter it. I mean, it makes things so much easier, man! Trying tunes with the wind behind my back is forbidden for me.

4. There will be frustration. Never in my life as a surfer have I had so much frustration to learn than with Air Camp.

What do you like least about surfing? And favorite?

My favorite is endless learning, whatever your level, surfing is eternal and has so many faces, so many limits you can push back and, of course, the absurdity of riding a wave. A hyper focus like that is hard to find! Even John, who is multiple champion and the best in surfing, is always so excited to learn and practice new things in the water, I love to see that in people, no matter what their skill level.

Least favorite is being so much in the sun i swear i got sun poison guys i cover myself so much but genetically i just destroy that and fight against a tombstone board while another wave lands on you I hate it! I seem to have found a few solutions to this and I think it will save a lot of unnecessary energy expenditure, making more in-depth videos like this on my coaching channel

What do you think of the average surfer taking waves in a lineup? I ended up in a queue with pros and even when I have the right of way I still feel like I should leave it up to one of you to do something better than the turns weak that I’m about to make …

I say no go get the waves if you can catch them and ride them! There is only the moment when the wave is way above your level and you know your prob is going to fall, for example. If I have right of way, but I’m not in a good position to go on the wave, I will tell someone else to go who is in a better position, not because they are more deep or whatever, but because I probably won’t get it from my position so why waste it?

What are your two favorite places you’ve traveled? One for the funniest waves and one for the funniest outside of surfing?

Western Australia is so cool, massive wave diversification, great food, cool people, just a scary shark vibe haha! Honestly, I love the peaks in Mexico on a big southerly swell! The waves are so much fun !!!

What are the strategies to become more comfortable in the big surfs?

Comfort is everything. If you are comfortable with your body and its strength it mentally helps to overcome this fear bump which is why training is so important to me! Willpower is everything… not jumping straight into something you’re extremely uncomfortable with is also huge, slow exposure to bigger and bigger surf is key. Jump into something you’re not ready for and you might be traumatized to never try again, which no one wants! Know your physical limits.

Who do you honestly think is the coolest of you and your brothers?

One hundred percent our younger brother Ivan, I literally call him Mister Cool. If you look at my youtube channel you’ll see, the guy has the best style of the three of us, he’s also good at skateboarding / surfing / snowboarding.

What is the Hekinbob? Where is he from? How to perfect this technique?

I need a Hekinbob OnlyFans tutorial! Dude, this person makes them and sells the creatures. In fact, she got mad at me for posting and not tagging her. This is how I found the page. Hekinbob is a weird seven thousand dollar baby monster creature that I saw and couldn’t stop laughing at. I can’t find a link for you.

Any tips for getting into cardio for surfing? Am I just surfing a bunch? Running a group? I always want to stay outside longer but I feel like my shape gets dirty after a while when I’m tired. And what music do you listen to these days?

If you have time, surf more! I tell everyone this, surfing more should be the number one priority! But I feel like most people don’t have endless time to surf, they really work! Swim a lot if you can, otherwise do some intense, strenuous workouts in the gym. Build up your motor, shoulder strength, and overall fitness. Dude, listen to so much 80s music lately …

What’s your state of mind, like, twenty-four hours before you go surfing big waves? Are you trying to visualize the exact steps you are going to take or are you trying to distract yourself (anxiety relief or whatever)?

I feel extreme anxiety. Adrenaline starts early for me and I use it for energy on big days. I use it to focus on what I want. I am definitely visualizing the wave I want. If it’s a big swell, I think about the ride of my life, what it would be like from start to finish, every detail. Of course I’m thinking of dying, how can you not get over some of these swells these days? But the chance to take the tour of a lifetime outweighs such thoughts.

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